It's a SCREAM ; Had enough anchovy-and- liquoricice cream? What a relief... so have we

Summary

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Britain is drowning in a frozen flood of designer ice creams. In more innocent times, we were so easily pleased - a tub of Wall's soft-scoop vanilla, luridly yellow and gloriously artificial, crammed between two cardboard-like wafers. Or Mr Whippy, 'largely air and fakery' in the words of Jane Grigson, and all the better for it.

For those of a more adventurous disposition, there was the tri- band excitement of Neapolitan: chocolate, strawberry and vanilla in one actionpacked slice. It mattered little that the pudding had about as much in common with the southern Italian city as the Mars bar does with the eponymous planet. Why choose one when you can have all three?

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It's a SCREAM ; Had enough anchovy-and- liquoricice cream? What a relief... so have we

Then, for the truly sophisticated, you had the rococo elegance of the Viennetta, all soft ice-cream swirls and delicate sheets of real- ish chocolate. Back in those days, you knew...

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