King of the Kitchen ; Who Makes Britain's Best Sausage? Our Man Savours the One Banger to Rule Them All

Summary

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There are few culinary debates more fiercely contested than the question of the perfect sausage. Some proclaim the British breakfast - with its finer grind and smidgen of rusk - is the greatest of them all, an elegant, civilised way to start the day. Others, including my friend Matthew Fort, snort at the very idea, declaring that a sausage should be sullied with no additives save a pinch of herbs and a twist of pepper. He favours the coarse grind, and up to 100 per cent meat, a more European style of banger.

One man may worship the sinuous, chunky curl of the Cumberland while another longs for the Oxford, with its combination of pork, veal, lemon and herbs. As to my views... I'm easy. As long as there's at least 80 per cent free-range porker in there, and the casing is natural, I'm happy. And shoulder and belly meat, please, rather than the more dubious bits and pieces that end up in the cheaper specimens at the base of the market.

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King of the Kitchen ; Who Makes Britain's Best Sausage? Our Man Savours the One Banger to Rule Them All

But a recent Country Life competition, presided over by the great chef Daniel Boulud, saw judges tasting their way through 400 varieties to arrive at one sausage to rule them ...

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