; Live for Food

Mail on SundayJune 26, 2011

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Summary


This time they've gone too far. Those mixologists, I mean, the crazed bar wizards who don't know when enough's enough. It's one thing muddling the boundaries of food and booze. The Bloody Mary, the second greatest cocktail of all time (pipped to the post by the Dry Martini), is the ultimate liquid lunch, a heart-starting, digestionstirring melange of vodka, tomato juice, lemon, Tabasco and Worcestershire sauce. My mouth waters at the very thought. The Bullshot, too, is a classic of its kind, the clearest of beef broths made better still with a generous slug of vodka. But a Bacon & Egg Coupe? Or a Squid-Ink Sour? That's just taking the proverbial.

That said, there are certain concoctions that make perfect culinary sense. A gin-and-tonic sorbet, say, that fizzes across the palate in a freezing fug of juniper, quinine and lemon peel. And at El Bulli, Ferran Adria's unique take on cocktails was every bit as thrilling as you'd expect. Neat sticks of sugarcane were infused with mojito and caipirinha and as you sucked out the Latin-scented liquid, smiles turned to gaping, aweinspired grins. But these were the creations of a master, a chef at the very pinnacle of his powers.

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Extract


; Live for Food

So expectations are not soaring as I duck into the second branch of the London Cocktail Club. This is the birthplace of these 'gastro- cocktails', dim and warm, and a blessed escape from th...

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