Solitude of Out-of-Season Umbria

Mail on SundayMay 15, 2011

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Summary


IF I COULD choose my nationality it would be Italian. I have an unconditional love of art, religion, gastronomy, flashing eyes, plunging necklines and dramatic hair tossing. I've baked on its packed Riviera beaches, shuffled round the Vatican in roasting August and idled on the grid with Grand Prix drivers outside Modena.

But out of season - between october and May - Italy is handed back to its indigenous population and that's the time for the most authentic experience of all, when it offers an atmospheric selection of microclimates - dense haunting fog, hot cloudless skies and warm rolling thunder storms - in a country you can have all to yourself. And just as Waitrose is the new Tesco and austerity is the new rock and roll, so Umbria is the new Tuscany.

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Extract


Solitude of Out-of-Season Umbria

But first there's the journey. On the 7.30am Ryanair flight from Stansted to Perugia - after the scrum for priority boarding - Brits are entertained at top volume with offers of scratch cards, smokeless cigarettes and inedible microwave meals, most of which cost more than they paid for the flight. But the moment you touch dow...

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